February 26th 2001 (daily pics index)


022601:
Late afternoon sun is still strong, waves crashing the cobble shoreline just below camp... tide is high @ 5:30pm... all relaxing...

Evening dinner bell calls all to much aniticpated meal.. all very hungry... local cervesas PANAMA, light lagers... evening falls... very colorful sunset... shortly all retire to net covered cots... all but the neighbor from NY.. a burly fellow, blond, round and full of party-ness... well he was very interested in sharing any & all intoxicants... including "deet", a shot or 2 of which he offered to one of our crew... nonetheless he was later seen & heard falling down... ranting... late into the night... by morning he had broken wrist & twisted ankle & much less braincells... he did become the brunt of jokes... poor fellow... What possessed him to drink insect repellant??


View west to the setting sun from the palapa...

Morning dawns w/ lulling sound of waves crashing cobble shores... 6:30am b'fast then off to the "Wedge" a break between Morro rocks to the north of camp (across the ba) Small, but clean... caught one ... then to save ?! went to shore...


The beach stretching North toward El torro rocks...


Beach walk w/ JCD, John A. Loren M and myself.. casual stroll... lots of crabs on beach... pigs rooting for clams, raptors in trees @ shoreline drop down to pick crabs... the dog (Ruffie) 2yr old mix is with us chasing sticks...




JCD and Loren with Ruffie....



Local swine rootingfor clams...



Later we skiffed to Sandbars again for low tid surf... very nce session...caught one good small 2nd peak wave... got the feel of my feet under me... stance is too wide, but I'm remembering... Inside is brutal... a deep holecollecting drifting currents so that caught inside is often truly caught... fight is to south to escape rips & then paddle around the side to the peaks again... but too far outside the current drifts away from the peak.... the shore (sandy) is quite far to the inside...


A Brazilian bro ripping it up @ Sandbars...


A group retires to the camp @11:30am lunch and relaxing... John A. got smacked w/ longboard.. very sore head... iced it & recovering (later he would find he puctured his eardrum)... Jeff & Max & Pete stayed out till 1pm... by 2 pm all resting having lunched.

Afternoon walk to El Torro (above).

Afternoon relaxation... we have been very active so far these last few days and it seems as if we've been here a week already... all under palapa lounging in hammocks, a few cervesas & idle talk for hours... Eveing sets in with a spectacular sunset... the orb setting over a distant islet... followed by a thin crescent moon... silvery path across the seas...

Cobble beachfron t is a storm berm ~3-3.5m high... clattering pebble/cobble cacophony w/ every mid-high tide backwash... waves crystal blue green slightly luminescent foam at night... few fire flies and hunting bats skirt the shoreline... all the while, day or night the air is richly humid 90o w/ light breeze...


Eveing sets in with a spectacular sunset... the orb setting over a distant islet... followed by a thin crescent moon... silvery path across the seas...


Another great sunset...

Evening passes w/ video review session in the camp messhall, all attending, oooh, ahhh...yeah! as comrades are showcased on the day's earlier session at Sandbars...

much later (8:30pm) light out, all tired & snoring commenses w/ a chorus...

Sleeping under a fine mosquito netting... otherwise in shorts and shirtless... finely temperate night sleep.




Journal index... of a long lost surfer...

Day ZERO: 022301
Day One: 022401 Day Two: 022501
Day Three: 022601 Day Four: 022701
Day Five: 022801 Day Six: 030101
Day Seven: 030201 Day Eight: 030301
 

special collections
Pete's Pics Ian's Pics Mau's Pics Carioca's Pics